| The labeling Chilean Merlot is a
catch-all to include wine that is made from a blend of indiscriminate
amounts of Merlot and Carmenere. With Merlot ripening 3 weeks earlier
than Carmenere, these wines differ greatly in quality depending on
harvesting.[3] History
After a series of setbacks that includes a severe frost in 1956 and
several vintages in the 1960s lost to rot, French authorities in
Bordeaux banned new plantings of Merlot vines between 1970 and 1975. [4]
In Merlot early history with California wine, the grape was used
primarily as a 100% varietal wine until wine maker Warren Winiarski
encouraged taking the grape back to its blending roots with Bordeaux
style blends. [5]
A mutant that produces white grapes has been found, and white wine is
made from this mutant by Beringer in California and Skalli in France.[6]
It has nothing to do with the rosé wine made from red Merlot that is
sometimes sold as "White Merlot".
Major regions
Merlot is produced primarily in France (where it is the third most
planted red grape),[7] Italy (where it is the country's 5th most planted
grape)[8] and California, Romania and on a lesser scale in Australia,
Argentina, Canada's Niagara Peninsula, Chile, New Zealand, South Africa,
Switzerland, Croatia, Hungary, Montenegro, Slovenia, and other parts of
the United States such as Washington and Long Island. It grows in many
regions that also grow Cabernet Sauvignon but tends to be cultivated in
the cooler portions of those areas. In areas that are too warm, Merlot
will ripen too early. [2]
In the traditional Bordeaux blend, Merlot's role is to add body and
softness. Despite accounting for 50-60% of overall plantings in
Bordeaux, the grape tends to account for an average of 25% of the
blends-especially in the Graves and Médoc. However, in the regions of
Pomerol and Saint-Emilion it is not unusual for Merlot to comprise the
majority of the blend. [7] One of the most famous and rare wines in the
world, Château Pétrus, is almost all Merlot.
In Italy, the Merlot grape is often blended with Sangiovese to give the
wine a similar softening effect as the Bordeaux blends. [8] The Strada
del Merlot is a popular tourist route through Merlot wine countries
along the Isonzo river. [4]
In Hungary, Merlot complements Kékfrankos, Kékoportó and Kadarka as a
component in Bull's Blood. It is also made into varietal wine known as
Egri Médoc Noir which is noted for its balanced acid levels and sweet
taste. [9]
Viticulture
Merlot grapes are identified by their loose bunches of large berries.
The color has less of a blue/black hue than Cabernet Sauvignon grapes
and with a thinner skin, the grapes also have fewer tannins. Also
compared to Cabernet, a Merlot grape tends to have higher sugar content
and lower malic acid. [10]
Merlot thrives in cold soil, particularly ferrous clay. The vine tends
to bud early which gives it some risk to cold frost and its thin skin
increases its susceptibility to rot. It normally ripens up to two weeks
earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon. Water stress is important to the vine
with it thriving in well drained soil more so than at base of a slope.
[11]
Pruning is a major component to the quality of the wine that is
produced. Wine consultant Michel Rolland is a major proponent for
reducing the yields of Merlot grapes to improve quality. [12] The age of
the vine is also important, with older vines contributing character to
the resulting wine. [10]
A characteristic of the Merlot grape is the propensity to quickly over
ripen once it hits its initial ripeness level, sometimes in a matter of
a few days. There are two schools of thought on the right time to
harvest Merlot. The wine makers of Château Pétrus favor early picking to
best maintain the wine's acidity and finesse as well as its potential
for aging. Others, such as Rolland, favor late picking and the added
fruit body that comes with a little bit of over-ripeness. [12]
White Merlot
White Merlot is made the same way as its more famous cousin, White
Zinfandel. The grapes are crushed, and after very brief skin contact,
the resulting pink juice is run off the must to then be fermented. Some
producers of White Merlot include Sutter Home, Forest Glen, and Beringer.
It normally has a hint of raspberry. White Merlot was reputedly first
marketed in the late 1990s, and should not be confused with wines made
from the white mutant of the grape.
In Switzerland, a type of White Merlot is made but is often considered
more a rosé. [8]
Merlot is sometimes referred to as "Merlot Noir" to distinguish it from
"Merlot Blanc" an unrelated white wine grape.[13]
In popular culture
* Merlot was mocked by the main character in the film Sideways who
prefers to drink Pinot Noir instead, which may have played a role in a
concurrent slowing of Merlot sales.[14]
* In the 153rd episode of Seinfeld, The Yada Yada, several characters
mention Merlot during a classic scene of one-upsmanship. Kramer and his
actor friend Mickey are on a double-date with two women, Karen and
Julie, who continually express likes in accord with first Mickey, then
Kramer, as the dates had no prior arrangement concerning who was dating
whom. As the waiter comes to offer the wine selection, Mickey responds
with "I like Merlot", prompting Karen to state that she loves Merlot,
and Julie to follow with "I'm crazy about Merlot". Ever the gamesman,
Kramer shouts "I live for Merlot", whereupon the waiter informs all four
Merlot enthusiasts that the restaurant is out of Merlot. |