In
the winery it is sensitive to fermentation methods, yeast strains
and is highly reflective of its terroir with different regions producing
very different wines. Its thin skin makes it highly susceptible to
bunch rot and other fungal diseases. The vines themselves are prone
to downy mildew, leaf roll, and fanleaf. These complications have
given the grape the reputation of being difficult to grow: Jancis
Robinson calls Pinot a "minx of a vine"[2] and André Tchelistcheff
declared that "God made cabernet sauvignon whereas the devil
made pinot noir."[2]
However, Pinot wines are among the most popular in the world. Joel
Fleischman of Vanity Fair describes Pinot noir as "the most romantic
of wines, with so voluptuous a perfume, so sweet an edge, and so powerful
a punch that, like falling in love, they make the blood run hot and
the soul wax embarrassingly poetic."[2] Master Sommelier Madeline
Triffon calls pinot "sex in a glass".[2]. Peter Richardsson
of OenoStyle, christened it, "a seductive yet fickle mistress!"[3]
The tremendously broad range of bouquets, flavors, textures and impressions
that Pinot noir can produce sometimes confuses tasters.[2] In the
broadest terms, the wine tends to be of light to medium body with
an aroma reminiscent of black cherry, raspberry or currant. Traditional
red Burgundy is famous for its fleshy, 'farmyard' aromas, but changing
fashions and new easier-to-grow clones have favoured a lighter, fruitier
style. The grape's color when young, often compared to that of garnet,
is often much lighter than that of other red wines. However, an emerging
style from California and New Zealand highlights a more powerful,
fruit forward and darker wine that can approach syrah in depth.
It is also used in the production of Champagne (usually along with
Chardonnay and Pinot meunier) and is planted in most of the world's
wine growing regions for use in both still and sparkling wines. Pinot
noir grown for dry table wines is generally low-yielding and often
difficult to grow well. Pinot noir grown for use in sparkling wines
(e.g. Champagne) is generally higher yielding.
In addition to being used for the production of sparkling and still
red wine, Pinot noir is also sometimes used for rosé still wines,
and even vin gris white wines.
History, mutants and clones
Pinot noir is an ancient variety that may be only 1-2 generations
removed from wild vines.[4] The origins of the variety are unclear:
In De re rustica, Columella describes a grape variety similar to Pinot
Noir in Burgundy during the 1st century A.D.[5] [2], however, vines
have grown wild as far north as Belgium in the days before phylloxera,
and it is possible that Pinot represents an independent domestication
of Vitis vinifera. The vines of southern France may represent Caucasian
stock transported by the ancient Greeks.
Ferdinand Regner has proposed[6] that Pinot noir is a cross between
Pinot meunier (Schwarzriesling) and Traminer, but this work has not
been replicated.[2] In fact Pinot meunier appears to be a Pinot noir
with a mutation in the epidermal cells which makes the shoot tips
hairy and the vine a little smaller.[7] This means that Pinot meunier
is a chimera with two tissue layers of different genetic makeup, one
of which is identical to Pinot noir. As such, Pinot meunier cannot
be the parent of Pinot noir.
Pinot gris is a bud sport of Pinot noir, presumably representing a
somatic mutation in either the VvMYBA1 or VvMYBA2 genes that control
grape colour. Pinot blanc may represent a further mutation of Pinot
gris. The DNA profiles of both Pinot gris and blanc are identical
to Pinot noir, [8] The other two major Pinots, Pinot moure and Pinot
teinturier, are also genetically very similar.[9]
A more recent white grape sport was propagated in 1936 by Henri Gouges
of Burgundy, and there is now 2.5ha planted of this grape which Clive
Coates [10] calls Pinot Gouges, and others call Pinot Musigny.
Pinot Liébault is a mutant which has higher, more consistent yields
than Pinot Noir, but retains its oenological qualities. As such it
is explicitly mentioned in some Burgundy appellations.
The Wrotham (pronounced "ruttum") Pinot is an English variety
with white hairs on the upper surface of the leaves, and is particularly
resistant to disease. Edward Hyams of Oxted Viticultural Research
Station was alerted to a strange vine growing against a cottage wall
in Wrotham in Kent, which local lore said was descended from vines
brought over by the Romans. An experimental Blanc de Noir was made
at Oxted, and in 1980 Richard Peterson took cuttings to California,
where he now makes a pink sparkling Wrotham Pinot.[11] Wrotham Pinot
is sometimes regarded as a synonym of Pinot meunier, but it has a
higher natural sugar content and ripens two weeks earlier.[12]
Pinot noir appears to be particularly prone to mutation (suggesting
it has active transposable elements?), and has a long history in cultivation,
so there are hundreds of different clones such as Pinot Fin and Pinot
Tordu. More than 50 are officially recognized in France compared to
only 25 of the much more widely planted cabernet sauvignon.[1] The
French Etablissement National Technique pour l’Amelioration de la
Viticulture (ENTAV) has set up a programme to select the best clones
of Pinot. Laurent Audeguin of ENTAV believes that most American clones,
such as 'Pommard' and 'Wadenswiel', produce wine that is inferior
to and very different from French Pinot;[13] the recent popularity
of ENTAV ("Dijon") clones in the US would appear to support
that thesis. It has even been suggested that the difference between
Oregon and Californian wines is principally a clonal effect, [13]
Oregon having mainly 'Wadenswil' (UCD2A) and 'Pommard' (aka 'Coury',
UCD4),[14] California has a lot of the well-regarded Joseph Swan clone.
Gamay Beaujolais
is an early-ripening clone of Pinot noir. It is used mostly in California
but is also seen in New Zealand[15]. It was brought to California
by Paul Masson. [16] Frühburgunder (Pinot Noir Précoce) is an early-ripening
grape that is thought to be a clone of Pinot noir[1] - it's possible
that the two are the same mutant.
In August 2007, French researchers announced the sequencing of the
genome of Pinot Noir.[17] It is the first fruit crop to be sequenced,
and only the fourth flowering plant.
Crosses
In the Middle Ages, the nobility of northeast France grew some form
of Pinot on the slopes above the peasants' Gouais blanc, a Croatian
grape that may have been brought to Gaul by the Romans. Much cross-pollination
resulted from such proximity, and the genetic distance between the
two parents imparted hybrid vigour leading to many desirable offspring.
These include Chardonnay, Aligoté, Auxerrois, Gamay, Melon and eleven
others.[8].
In 1925 Pinot noir was crossed in South Africa with the Cinsaut grape
(known locally as Hermitage) to create a unique variety called Pinotage.
Regions
Australia
Pinot Noir is produced in several wine growing areas of Australia,
notably in the Yarra Valley, Geelong, the Bellarine Peninsula, Beechworth,
Whitlands, South Gippsland, Sunbury and Mornington Peninsula in Victoria,
Adelaide Hills in South Australia and Tasmania.
Austria
In Austria, Pinot Noir is sometimes called Blauburgunder (literally
Blue Burgundy) and produced in Burgenland and Lower Austria. Austrian
Pinot noir wines are dry red wines similar in character to the red
wines of Burgundy, mostly aged in French barriques. Some of the best
Austrian Pinots come from Neusiedlersee and Blaufraenkischland, (Burgenland)
and Thermenregion (Lower Austria).
Canada
Quality Pinot noir has been grown in Ontario for some time in the
Niagara Peninsula and especially the Short Hills Bench wine region,
as well as on the north shore of Lake Erie. It has also been grown
recently in the Okanagan, Lower Mainland, and Vancouver Island wine
regions of British Columbia.
England & Wales
Pinot noir is increasingly being planted in England, mostly for use
in sparkling wine blends such as Nyetimber. It is sometimes made into
a fairly light still red or rose wine, in the style of Alsace, Chapel
Down are particular keen on it. England can claim an indigenous Pinot
variety in the Wrotham Pinot (see above).
France
Pinot Noir has made France's Burgundy appellation famous, and vice-versa.
Many wine historians, including John Winthrop Haeger and Roger Dion,
believe that the association between pinot and Burgundy was the explicit
strategy of Burgundy's Valois dukes. Roger Dion, in his thesis regarding
Philip the Bold's role in promoting the spread of pinot noir, holds
that the reputation of Beaune wines as "the finest in the world"
was a propaganda triumph of Burgundy's Valois dukes.[2] In any event,
the worldwide archetype for pinot noir is that grown in Burgundy where
it has been cultivated since 100 CE.
Burgundy's pinot noir produces great wines which can age very well
in good years, developing floral flavours as they age, often reaching
peak 15 or 20 years after the vintage. Many of the wines are produced
in very small quantities and can be very expensive. Cheaper examples
are available, and provided one is willing to sample, it is possible
to experience the Burgundy character but at a more affordable level.
Today, the celebrated Côte d’Or area of Burgundy has about 4,500 hectares
(11,000 acres) of pinot noir. Most of the region's finest wines are
produced from this area. The Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais regions
in southern Burgundy have another 4,000 hectares (10,000 acres).
In Jura département, across the river valley from Burgundy, the wines
made from pinot noir are lighter.
In Champagne it used in blending with chardonnay and pinot meunier.
It can also appear unblended, in which case it may be labelled blanc
de noirs. The Champagne appellation has more pinot planted than any
other area of France.
In Sancerre it is used to make red and rosé wines, much lighter in
style that those of Burgundy, refreshing served chilled, especially
in warmer years when they are less thin.
In Alsace it is generally used to make rosé wines. However, it is
also used to make genuine red wines usually called pinot noir rouge,
which are similar in character to red Burgundy and Beaujolais wines
but are consumed chilled. Prominent examples are Rouge de Barr and
Rouge d'Ottrott. Pinot noir rouge is the only red wine produced in
Alsace.
Germany
In Germany it is called Spätburgunder, and is now the most widely
planted red grape.[1] Historically much German wine produced from
pinot noir was pale, often rosé like the red wines of Alsace. However
recently, despite the northerly climate, darker, richer reds have
been produced, often barrel (barrique) aged, in regions such as Baden,
Palatinate (Pfalz) and Ahr. These are rarely exported and are often
very expensive in Germany for the better examples. As "Rhenish",
German Pinot Noir is mentioned several times in Shakesperean plays
as a highly prized wine. [18]
There is also a smaller-berried, early ripening, lower yield variety
called Frühburgunder (Pinot Noir precose) which is grown in Rheinhessen
and Ahr area and can produce very good wines.
Italy
In Italy, where Pinot Noir is known as Pinot Nero, it has traditionally
been cultivated in the Alto Adige, Collio Goriziano, Oltrepò Pavese
and Trentino regions to produce Burgundy-style red wines. Cultivation
of Pinot Noir in other regions of Italy, mostly since the 1980s, has
been challenging due to climate and soil conditions.
Moldova
Large amounts of Pinot were planted in central Moldova during the
19th century, but much was lost to the ravages of phylloxera; Soviet
control of Moldova from 1940 to 1991 also reduced the productivity
of vineyards. Quality is somewhat variable; Moldovan Pinot can be
overoaked and rather rough.
New Zealand
Pinot Noir is a grape variety whose importance in New Zealand is greater
than the weight of planting. Early in the modern wine industry (late
1970s early 1980s), the comparatively low annual sunshine hours to
be found in NZ discouraged the planting of red varieties. But even
at this time great hopes were had for Pinot Noir (see Romeo Bragato).
Initial results were not promising for several reasons, including
the mistaken planting of Gamay, and the limited number of Pinot Noir
clones available for planting. However in recent years Pinot Noir
from Martinborough and Central Otago has won numerous international
awards and accolations making it one of New Zealand's most sought-after
varieties.
Historically, one notable exception was the St Helena 1984 Pinot Noir
from the Canterbury region. This led to the belief for a time that
Canterbury might become the natural home for Pinot Noir in New Zealand.
While the early excitement passed, the Canterbury region has witnessed
the development of Pinot Noir as the dominant red variety. The sub-region
Waipara has some interesting wines. Producers include Pegasus Bay,
Waipara Springs and Omihi Hills.
The next region to excel with Pinot Noir was Martinborough on the
southern end of the North Island. Several vineyards including Palliser
Estate, Martinborough Vineyards, Murdoch James Estate [1] and Ata
Rangi consistently produced interesting and increasingly complex wine
from Pinot Noir at the end of the 1980s and into the 1990s. Early
plantings were on the alluvial soils of the Huangarua and Dry River
terraces, while more recently growers like Murdoch James have been
experimenting with plantings on the califerous hillsides south of
the village. The moderate climate and long growing season gives wines
of great intensity and complexity. In the 2000s, other sub-regions
in the Wairarapa have been developed to the north of Martinborough.
Gladstone and Masterton are just two of these.
At around this time the first plantings of Pinot Noir in Central Otago
occurred in the Kawarau Gorge. Central Otago had a long (for New Zealand)
history as a producer of quality stone fruit and particularly cherries.
Significantly further south than all other wine regions in New Zealand,
it had been overlooked despite a long history of grape growing. However,
it benefited from being surrounded by mountain ranges which increased
its temperature variations both between seasons and between night
and day making the climate unusual in the typically maritime conditions
in New Zealand.
The first vines were planted using holes blasted out of the north
facing schist slopes of the region, creating difficult, highly marginal
conditions. The first results coming in the mid to late 1990s excited
the interest of British wine commentators, including Jancis Robinson
and Oz Clarke. Not only did the wines have the distinctive acidity
and abundant fruit of New Zealand wines, but they demonstrated a great
deal of complexity, with aromas and flavours not common in New Zealand
wine and normally associated with Burgundian wine. Producers include
Felton Rd, Chard Farm and Mt Difficulty. More recently Central Otago
has again subdivided into areas producing subtly different wines based
on unique terriors such as Bannockburn, Gibbston Valley and Wanaka.
The latest sub-region appears to be Waitaki, on the border between
Otago and Canterbury.
A recent blind tasting of New Zealand Pinot Noir featured in Cuisine
magazine (issue 119), Michael Cooper reported that of the top ten
wines, five came from Central Otago, four from Marlborough and one
from Waipara. This compares with all top ten wines coming from Marlborough
in an equivalent blind tasting from last year. Cooper suggests that
this has to do with more Central Otago production becoming available
in commercial quantities, than the relative qualities of the regions'
Pinot Noir. In addition, as the industry has matured, many of the
country's top producers have made the decision to no longer submit
their wines to reviews or shows.
As is the case for other New Zealand wine, New Zealand Pinot Noir
is fruit-driven, forward and early maturing in the bottle. It tends
to be quite full bodied (for the variety), very approachable and oak
maturation tends to be restrained. High quality examples of New Zealand
Pinot Noir, particularly from the Martinborough region, are distinguished
by savoury, earthy flavours with a greater complexity.
Spain
Pinot noir has recently been produced in small amounts in Lleida province,
Catalonia, under the appellation "Costers del Segre" DO.
Switzerland
Pinot noir is a popular grape variety all over Switzerland. In German
speaking regions of Switzerland it is often called Blauburgunder.
Pinot noir wines are produced in Neuchâtel, Schaffhausen, St. Gallen
and Bündner Herrschaft. Neuchâtel, across the border from Burgundy,
is renowned for its Pinot noir, a full bodied dry red wine. In Valais,
Pinot noir is blended with Gamay to produce the well known Dôle.
United States
By volume most Pinot Noir in America is grown in California with Oregon
coming in second. Other regions are Washington State and New York.
California wine regions known for producing pinot noir are:
* Sonoma Coast
* Russian River Valley
* Central Coast[19]
* Sta. Rita Hills
* Monterey County / Santa Lucia Highlands
* Santa Cruz Mountains [2]
* Carneros District of Napa and Sonoma
* Anderson Valley
* Livermore Valley
* San Luis Obispo County/Arroyo Grande Valley, Edna Valley
Oregon wine regions known for producing pinot noir:
* Willamette Valley
Oregon pinot noir pioneer David Lett of Eyrie Vineyards first planted
pinot noir in Oregon in 1965, and several other growers followed suit
throughout the 1970s. In 1979, Lett took his wines to a competition
in Paris, known in English as the Wine Olympics, and they placed third
among pinots. In a 1980 rematch arranged by French wine magnate Robert
Drouhin, the Eyrie vintage improved to second place. The competition
instantly put Oregon on the map as a world class pinot noir producing
region.
The Willamette Valley of Oregon is at the same latitude as the Burgundy
region of France, and has a similar climate in which the finicky pinot
noir grapes thrive. In 1987, Drouhin purchased land in the Willamette
Valley, and in 1989 built Domaine Drouhin Oregon, a state-of-the-art,
gravity-fed winery. Throughout the 1980s, the Oregon wine industry
blossomed.
In recent times, wineries in New York State have come to be known
for their Pinot Noir, in particular the Niagara Escarpment AVA and
Warm Lake Estate. The latter, in Lockport, New York, is recognized
in the The Oxford Companion to Wine and has been awarded the highest
ratings in New York State of any pinot noir with its 45 acres of pinot
noir being the largest continuous planting east of the Rocky Mountains.
Recent popularity
During 2004 and the beginning of 2005, pinot noir became considerably
more popular amongst consumers in the United States of America, Australia,
New Zealand and Asia possibly because of the movie Sideways.[20] Being
lighter in style, it has benefited from a trend toward more restrained,
less alcoholic wines. Robert Parker has described pinot noir in Parker's
Wine Buying Guide:
"When it's great, pinot noir produces the most complex, hedonistic,
and remarkably thrilling red wine in the world..."
On October, 2007, Blair and Estelle Hunt (Bald Hills vineyard in New
Zealand, who started making wine without any previous experience)
beat 4,760 entries to win the Champion Red award in the International
Wine Challenge, the world's biggest blind tasting. Their 2005 pinot
noir has been judged the best wine in the world this year and, it
was the first time a vineyard outside France took Decanter magazine's
top prize for best pinot noir over £10. [21] |
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